Italy 2023 itineraries – Part 2 of 4 – Positano

Part 1: Rome | Part 2: Positano | Part 3: Venice | Part 4: Tuscany

The basics of our time in Positano:

  • POSITANO – 4 nights total, starting Sep 26
  • Stunning airbnb:: $1742 for 4 nights – Casa il melograno airbnb – crib, 1 bed – Via Mangialupini, 23
    • Amazing fruit garden, giant terrace with multiple nooks and outdoor dining areas, helped with our bags down all the steps (essential perk for any booking in positano!!); incredible view of the cliffs and lights of Maiori. Helped with reservations and very kid friendly!
  • Stairs vs Taxis – since we were using the baby carrier – our strategy was to always walk down and splurge on a private taxi up ($35-50 every time)
  • Positano with Kids – ultimately, we wish we had stayed in Amalfi town or Ravello because Positano was just too hard for us with the baby carrier and all the steps – they are steep and it takes so much concentration you are tired before the day begins. Staying there was a totally different experience then just taking the bus in for the day (What I had done 10 years ago) because the bus drops you off at the best places where you don’t have to navigate as many steps.

Day 1: Travel from Rome to Positano, check in 3pm

  • Travel from Rome Termini to Positano: Book train on ITALIA RAIL website.; Train Roma Termini to Napoli Centrale
  • Private transfer / Amalfi Coast Tour (email rosybkg@gmail.com week of to confirm) because we wanted to use with baby and still see more of Amalfi coast while on a travel day and also needed to kill time until we could check in in Positano. – 390 Euro
    • Stop in Ravello, amalfi, and then to positano, stopped at a friend’s who makes limoncello and did a tasting with him which was fun! We loved having a half day to do these other towns!
  • Airbnb host helped us make day-of reservations at Da Vincenzo day-of – and it was overrated, but affordable for Positano, but the best cave-ambiance and bread and balsamic we had in all of Italy!!!

Day 2 rest, beach day

  • Beach chairs – Grande Spiaggia, L’incanto – booked online
    • Nonrefundable, chairs for the day , kids under 6 do not need a ticket (but also don’t get a chair?)
    • Having the diaper bag that folds out to bassinet / changing table was amazing to have a place to put baby on the pebbly beach
    • Changing rooms available
  • Highly suggest getting front row – the VIEW of the sea and cliffs is why you are there! And also you have less steps when you get out of the ocean on the black rock beach that puts everyone in pain! I wore my chacos in the water for this reason!
  • pizza/drink service available to your chair – but for drinks we packed a cooler (the one i brought for as a free extra “pumping” bag – we stopped at a grocery store on the way down and grabbed some cold Peronis for the beach!
  • Favorite dinner in Italy: ***”Il Rifugio dei Mele” located in the highest hamlet of Positano called “nocelle”, with a breathtaking view over the entire upper part of Positano, you will feel suspended in the air, refined dishes of the highest quality, it is a place that will leave you speechless open.
    • Can email rifugiodeimele@gmail.com to arrange a shuttle up, included. 
    • However we booked the earliest dinner reservation at 6:30 and that is before the shuttle starts – so took a private taxi $50euro –  but SO worth it to see the view of Sunset from the highest point, then see the moon rise over Praino.

Day 3 – path of the Gods 

  • Airbnb experience: gastro hike on path of the Gods
    • The BEST guides we had the entire trip. So nice. Franco and Andrea were amazing.
    • Was way more strenuous than we expected starting from the top and going down. Plus the gastro hike has you stop for so long and socialize and you lose your energy more quickly. We were halfway down (but at the last vista for pictures ) and our babybjorn carrier’s plastic belt piece snapped off *gasp* right before the place where you have to scale part of the mountain to the connecting path down. We knew that was a sign [from the Gods] that we needed to turn back so the guides split up so one of them could hike the 2 hours back to the car.
    • Do not make dinner reservations after this, you will be so full

Day 4, rest, pack

  • Final shopping/exploring day – we meandered down the cliff!

Day 5, travel – positano to venice, 

Most used items:

  • Baby Bjorn mini carrier – so lightweight and not bulky!
  • Kavu – gender neutral so Blake or I could sling it on, fits diaper + travel essentials, hidden passport pocket inside for cash, passports, etc. very secure!
  • Diaper Bag – with bassinet built in
  • Chacos – I rotated between these and OnClouds every day. So comfortable for all the walking. Amazon drops them down to $29 on good sale days!  
  • OnClouds

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