So many people have asked about our Italy 2023 (Sep 18 – Oct 13) Itinerary! When we found out I was pregnant, we started joking about how that is the most leave I’d get to be able to go back to my favorite place, Italy, and show Blake around. Then the joking turned into looking up flights… and lots of logistics with a two month old in tow. Here is the round up – much of our trip was influenced by a facebook group I highly recommend if it suits you – “Travelling to Italy with Kids”.
Here we go! Italy 2023 itineraries – Part 1 of 4 – Rome
The basics of our time in Rome:
Rome – 7 Nights
apartment: Hotels.Com – Cappellari 2 Campo de fiori: Via dei Cappellari 73, Rome, 00186
pros: very spacious, 1 large BR, 1 large shared space between living room + kitchen, 1 large BR + big shower! AMAZING neighborhood and AMAZING location to main sites (10/15 min walk to Pantheon, and to Piazza Navona); crib infant available $40, washer
cons: did not provide basic essentials – only 1 bar of soap and 1 roll of TP provided.
Groceries: diapers, wipes were plentiful at the coop and Farmacias
Neighborhood: Campo de Fiori – we absolutely loved this area and it made me fall in love with Rome. Being situated close to a main road was key to get taxis easily and yet we were tucked away with an amazing Osteria Cappellari right below us. Our walk to the market in Campo De Fiori was so breathtaking.
Fav Breakfast: Pastries from Roscioli: I think the pistachio croissant was the absolute best from this place. Not too thick, not too artificial. Perfectly creamy and delicate. They also combine a deli, bakery, and restaurant; they are a food lover’s paradise. It’s famous for its high-quality cured meats, cheeses, and freshly baked bread. The restaurant also serves delectable pasta dishes and seafood.
Day 1: Arrival – Sep 19
Rome Airport:
Having a stroller meant we had to navigate finding the elevators and what floor to go to get to customs, which was tricky. But once we arrived it allowed us to go to the family line which was very fast.
The FreeNow taxi app was confusing. After baggage claim there is a line to wait at the Taxi Stand or ride share. We tried to bypass the taxi stand by using the app and our drivers could not locate us between T1 and T3 and kept cancelling on me so after 20 mins we ended up getting in the taxi line. Pro tip – if the T1 taxi stand is long because it is right outside your baggage claim which everyone is standing around, go to T3 taxi stand, or vice versa – we were able to walk right into a cab at that point once we walked to the other terminal’s stand.
Phones / SIM cards
I got Holafly for ESIM but Blake has a physical SIM card so we purchased the tourist ESIM from the Vodafone stand that is in a booth in baggage claim 9.
Daypass: Booked at Hotel Giolli Nazionale
Room available 11AM -6pm
12 min walk to Trevi Fountain, 15 to Spanish Steps
Rome was SO hot, and the alternative was to pay per bag for luggage storage (not well attended!) and then roam around Rome until checkin at 3pm in the heat. DayPass was SO wonderful we all took showers and naps and got our bags situated, plus I selected a hotel in a different location so it was walkable to different sites than our week’s condo.
Trevi Fountain / Spanish steps – the streets that veer off from Trevi are just beautiful and really put us in awe right away on day 1!
Spanish Steps: use the Metro elevator at the Spanish steps – lifesaver
Day 2 –
Breakfast: Roscioli Caffè Pasticceria (Piazza Benedetto Cairoli, 16): This charming café and pastry shop is known for its delectable pastries, coffee, and breakfast options. It’s an excellent place to start your day with a cup of espresso and a freshly baked croissant.
Rest day, parents were jet lagged but baby seemed to have no issue!
chef +61 406 148 667 (what’s app) Chef Mattia Rossi ; 4 courses 1 night
Very kind, his wife is the pastry chef that formerly worked at a Michelin rated restaurant. We got advice from him about fresh produce to buy from the farmers market and where to eat. Wish we booked him night 1 instead of night 2 but i wasn’t sure how we would feel with jet lag.
Day 3 – Colosseum and Roman Forum joint tickets
Booked viator tour 11am as backup. Free cancellation. We tried to get the tickets from the official website and both times 30 days out and 7 days out they were sold out instantly.
If we were able to get the non-tour tickets, Make sure download y&co app free. And download videos on the app for you to watch today at the stops.
We used our friend who is a travel agent to book Viator and she had a 20% off code! Very convenient.
Colosseum was stroller friendly, mostly paved, lifts available (but long line) so we carried up very steep steps at our own risk.
Roman Forum was not very stroller friendly with all the fine pebble walk ways and giant divers in the ancient stone paths so sadly we left as soon as our tour was done.
Dinner: Tonnarello – there are 2 different locations close to each other and one has a VERY long line but when they saw our baby they let us skip it! I pray you have the same experience. This place is v famous but honestly it was just average – glad we could check it off and it brought us to explore a new part of Rome on the other side of the river, but if you can’t get to it don’t worry.
Day 4 – Vatican City
7:45AM – Breakfast Tickets from official website – Vatican Museum + Sistine Chapel admission + entrance, then Basilica
Your email confirmation will get you in the building. Then you need to get your confirmation email/code converted to a paper ticket printed at the ticket booth inside before you go up. Breakfast was all the way up at the bistro area (which was essentially the garden courtyard).
Directions to Basilica short cut from Sistine Chapel:
They did NOT let us take the short cut and said it is only if you are with an official guide. But I hope this works for you – from Sistine Chapel, take the stroller down to the path on the right , skip all the line and enter St. Peter’s basilica in less than 7 minutes. After you exit the Sistine chapel , just take the path on the right side. The guard can confirm this is the path to the basilica. You don’t need a ticket to enter the basilica, this path just means a short cut – no need to exit then line up outside the hot sun – at least 2 hours – we just line up smoothly and it took 5 minutes to enter the basilica
12:30 LUNCH – hostaria ago e lillio – made on the Fork app and got 20% off! Our favorite carbonara was here.
Day 5 – rest day / make up day
12:30 reservation: emma – we are BIG carnivores but we also tried the white vegetarian pizza with eggplant and artichokes and the like and it was the BEST!
Walked to Pantheon to see it lit up at night on the way to Giolitti Gelato
Fav Rome Gelato: Giolitti (near Pantheon): Established in 1900, Giolitti is one of Rome’s most iconic gelaterias. Located near the Pantheon, this historic establishment serves a delicious variety of gelato flavors. They also offer a selection of toppings, and you can enjoy your gelato in the beautiful indoor seating area.
My favorite excursion in Rome – only for Villa d’este
Hadrian’s was cool but it’s just not as intact so you have to really use your guide to understand what was there.
Lunch on this tour was eh but Villa d’este was magical and made every moment worth it.
Day 7- Frascati + Wine Tour
AirBNB Experience: 16th century wine tour Venture into the Roman countryside and visit the picturesque town of Frascati, famous for its vineyards and wine production.
This time tour was our favorite of the whole trip! The cave (paved, stroller friendly) dates back to BC when ancient Romans were excavating volcanic rock to build their colbblestone streets. Then later the caves were turned into wine storage. The tunnels all connect under Frascati. It was fascinating and great wine.
Most used items:
Kavu – gender neutral so Blake or I could sling it on, fits diaper + travel essentials, hidden passport pocket inside for cash, passports, etc. very secure!
Doona – Banks loved jiggling in the stroller on the Roman cobblestone streets. The wheels held up great and 2-in-1 stroller + car seat for all the taxis was just what we wanted.
Chacos – I rotated between these and OnClouds every day. So comfortable for all the walking. Amazon drops them down to $29 on good sale days!
